Ryan Star – Ride The Wave
When I was a kid I remember the day Mark Foo died. This revolutionary big wave surfer never came up after riding his wave in. It was as if this liquid mountain was his chariot to the world beyond. He was riding in his passion and will always live on in the hall of greats. As a kid I grew up surfing on the east end of Long Island. Montauk is the place that I consider my birthplace–where I learned who I was. Spiritual is how I felt the day I heard Mark Foo died doing what he loved. I didn’t think about his beliefs, his status, or his bank account. I thought about a man who was in one moment living out his purpose and then the next literally ceased to exist. He was a hero to me and that is because fear could not follow him where he was going. I like the idea of living without that fear.
read more





Twitter Updates